I actually got few messages on product recommendations right after I post the review on how to prep, correct and conceal under eye area. Since colour correcting is trending right now I thought I will do a whole post about how to use the colour correcting techniques as whole plus sharing some of my favourite products that I always like to use. Colour correcting is not some thing new, the colour correcting techniques have been used by makeup artist from decades, and now the concept is trending among consumers widely. As I have mentioned in my previous post on colour correcting for under the eyes, we all have this problem when we see any uneven skin tone or pigmentation, we all think of full coverage concealers (in lighter shades) or foundations and applying them in a generous amount to cover them which won’t do the job, however it will make it look chalky/grey and they look more prominent. Before starting any thing, first we have to know a little about our self and knowing about our complexion concerns. You have to know exactly what are your targets knowing the colour wheel is the key especially if you’re a makeup artist . Once you know the concept of colour wheel and a little about your complexion (reviewed here), you’re all set.
Today I will take you guys step by step through the process of the colour correcting and best products you can use for any type of skin texture.
Step 1: Prep the skin
Starting from a clean skin, my best finds are a good hydrating moisturizer and an eye cream. Making sure your skin is well hydrated is the key to achieve a glowy skin. Even if you are having an oily skin a moisturizer is a must, it will control the residue on the skin. It takes 5 to 7 minutes for skin to absorb the products, allowing the moisturizer and eye cream set into your skin otherwise applying any thing afterword will make the products to move. Also if you’re having a dry skin or experiencing dryness especially under eye area reapplying the moisturizer is the key. I have so many questions on why the under eye area looks caky or the fine lines appears more after applying concealer? it’s only because the under eye area is dehydrated. I usually apply my eye cream twice before I start my makeup and if you’re having a dry skin like me I would suggest to use an oiled based serum followed by reach hydrating moisturizer. Here are some of my favourite face and eye moisturizers and serums, which I personally love.
- Eye moisturizer: Ole Henriksen’s Ultimate lift eye gel: great for under eye hydration reviewed here.
Origins GinZing Refreshing eye cream great for reducing the dark circles reviewed here.
- Face moisturizer: Ole Henriksen’s Sheer Transformation Moisturizer which is a great light weight hydrating moisturizer especially for oily skin reviewed here.
- Face Serum: Caudali Premier CRU the Elixir is an oiled based serum for dehydrated skin reviewed here.
Clarins Double Serum which is a great booster for all skin type reviewed here.
Step 2: Base
First comes first I like to equalize the skin as whole, which means to target the main concern of the skin like redness, sallowness, pigmentation or dullness. I personally love the Make Up For Ever’s Correcting primers, where you can prime and equalize the skin at the same time without adding more texture to the skin. This way you can naturalize the skin and extent the life of makeup at the same time. I also like Reveal Concentrated colour correcting drops from Algenist are a great product to equalize the skin tone. Other than that there are a great range of products Here is an overall map of how to equalize your skin tone:
Step 3: Colour Correcting
At this point you can really go to the details of main issues like under eye dark circles, dark spots from acne or scars. Always remember layering the foundation will not cover the problematic area, colour correcting will help add coverage without caking on product. For correcting the under eye area and dark spots, using a peachy/melon corrector will do the job, the more deeper/darker the skin tone or spots, the more deeper you will go with the corrector shade. I like to use serum based, or gel based correctors for under the eye area so it keeps the area hydrated and its light weight will not show the fine lines under the eye area. And I like the cream based correctors for spot correcting using a detailed concealer brush, the key is to apply and let set so that colours don’t get muddied when you blend them wet. The cream based correctors also works well for well hydrated under eye area, I like to use the cream correctors with my fingers since the heat of the body will make the product to melt and it sticks into the skin very well. Or if you feel that they are a little too tick adding a drop of essential oil will thin out the corrector. Always remember less is more.
Step 4: Conceal/Set and Finish
Selecting a good foundation or concealer is also a key, you have to make sure you select a shade that matches your natural skin-tone plus once you have start correcting the skin you don’t need too much foundation or concealer to cover any thing (which looks flat), a light weight foundation or concealer with a thin layer will do the job. I like to use my Beauty Blender for my concealer and foundation, just dab on the foundation over the corrected areas gently. You don’t want to move the products around or pressing the brush too hard on the face, it will drag and mix the colours to make it look muddy. If you’re doing a photo shoot or taking professional pictures I would suggest to go one more step on lightly applying a yellow colour concealer just where you want to highlight the face (under the eye area, bridge of the nose, forehead and chin) or mix a little bit of the yellow concealer with your regular concealer just to give a little brightness to the highlighted area. Another option (my preference) is to set the highlighted area with a yellow colour loose powder, this step will take over any thing that have been left out from correcting. Finish the other parts of the face with a loose powder using a puffer and in pressing motion offers a flawless finish.
Three basic main colours to use for correcting (Green for redness or blemishes, Orange for dark circles or spots and Yellow to brighten):
Correctors and concealer side to side:
- Make Up For Ever Equalizing Primer – this comes in various shades to equalize your skin tone, you can choose the one that works for you.
- Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer – this is a great full coverage concealer yet creamy in texture.
- Sephora Bright Future Colour Correcting – these are gel based concealer which provides hydration to skin and comes in all correcting shades and colours.
- Bobbie Brown Intensive Skin Serum Concealer – a serum based and light weight concealers and correctors.
- Stila Aqua Glow Serum Concealer – a serum based full coverage concealer.
- Laura Mercier Secret Concealer – is a cream based full coverage concealer which does magic.
- NYX Above and Beyond Concealer – is a cream based concealer with medium coverage, I only like it to use as a corrector not as concealer.
- Make Up For Ever 5 Camouflage Palette Colour Correct and Concealer – a cream based concealer and corrector palette, I like it for its multi-purpose use.
- L’Oréal True match Concealer Stick – is a great concealer for spotted treatments.
- Micro Mini Correct Four by Beauty Blender – great way to blend the concealer and corrected area.
What I use on my complexion:
- Make Up For Ever Equalizing Primer – in Green shade to equalize some of the redness that I have on my checks.
- Bobbie Brown Intensive Skin Serum Concealer – in Light Peach to cancel out some of dark circles under the eye area.
- Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer – in Vanila (one shade brighter than my skin tone) to cover and brighten the highlighted area.
- Real Techniques Deluxe crease brush (From starter set) I use this brush to blend the corrected and concealed area.
- Make Up For Ever Ultra HD Invisible Cover Foundation – in R260 with a foundation brush or a beauty Blender.
- Besame Brightening Face Powder – in Brightening Vanila to set every thing in place with my favorite 156 Large Flat Blush Brush from Make Up For Ever , this brush works the best especially under the eye area, since I have a fair skin tone I can use it all over my face but I would suggest if you have a darker skin tone to use a translucent loose powder (my favorite reviewed here).